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Invisible Zips

Difficult Fabrics

 

The Bernina foot number 35 is specifically designed for inserting invisible zips.  It eliminates the need to press the zip first as the carefully engineered sole holds the zip tape and coils in exactly the right place for stitching.

Pin one side of zip in place with the coil on the seam line.

How to Insert an Invisible Zip

An invisible zipper is inserted before the seam is stitched.

If your machine brand has a dedicated invisible zip foot, attach it. Alternatively, a plastic invisible zip attachment can be used. The idea is that the foot should push the coil of the zip away as you sew to allow the stitches to be as close as possible to the coil of the zip.

Attach the invisible zipper foot to the machine, have the needle in the centre position and select straight stitch.

Open the zip and place face down on the right side of the fabric.

Pin one side of the zip in place with the coil on the seam line and the top stop of the zip 2cm below the raw edge of the garment. Remember that it is best not to have sewn the seam at this stage as you stitch each side of the zip from top to bottom and then join the two sides of fabric together.  Therefore, only pin one side at this point.  See picture.

Position the right-hand groove of foot over the zip coil, stitch the zip until the foot meets the slider.

Stitch a few stitches backwards to secure and then remove the zip and fabric.

Now pin the other side of zip in place with the coil on the seam line and top stop 2cm below the raw edge of garment. Check that the zip has not become twisted at the bottom.

Position the left-hand groove of the foot and stitch as before from the top to the bottom.

Stitch a few stitches backwards to secure and then remove the zip and fabric.

Close the zip.

Attach the standard zip foot and move the needle to the side. Pin the seam together below the zip opening. Fold the end of the zip out of the way and lower the needle to slightly above and to the left of the last stitch.

Stitch a seam about 5cm securing at the end. Change to the regular presser foot and complete the seam.

Exquisite Stitch 2012