How to Insert an
Invisible Zip
An
invisible zipper is
inserted before the seam is stitched.
If your
machine brand has a
dedicated invisible zip foot, attach it. Alternatively,
a plastic invisible zip attachment can be used. The
idea is that the foot should push the coil of the zip away as you sew
to allow the stitches to be as close as possible to the coil of the zip.
Attach the invisible zipper
foot to the
machine, have the needle in the centre position and select straight
stitch.
Open the zip and place face
down on the right
side of the fabric.
Pin one side of the zip in
place with the coil
on the seam line and the top stop of the zip 2cm below the raw edge of
the garment. Remember that it is best not to have sewn the seam at this
stage as you stitch each side of the zip from top to bottom and then
join the two sides of fabric together. Therefore,
only pin one side at this point. See
picture.
Position the right-hand groove
of foot over
the zip coil, stitch the zip until the foot meets the slider.
Stitch a few stitches backwards
to secure and
then remove the zip and fabric.
Now pin the other side of zip
in place with
the coil on the seam line and top stop 2cm below the raw edge of
garment. Check that the zip has not become twisted at the bottom.
Position the left-hand groove
of the foot and
stitch as before from the top to the bottom.
Stitch a few stitches backwards
to secure and
then remove the zip and fabric.
Close the zip.
Attach the standard zip foot
and move the
needle to the side. Pin the seam together below the zip opening. Fold
the end of the zip out of the way and lower the needle to slightly
above and to the left of the last stitch.
Stitch a seam about 5cm
securing at the end.
Change to the regular presser foot and complete the seam.
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